The Tallinn Sweater by Hey June

Fun fact: Tallinn, Estonia is one of the oldest capital cities in northern Europe and is consistently voted one of the Top 10 European Christmas Markets. I want to go to there.

Speaking of Europe….the fabric that I used for this pattern came from across the pond. I befriended Fleurine from Sew Mariefleur early last year and we quickly hit it off and found eerily similar characteristics about each other, including our taste in fabrics. Long story short, Fleurine bought 2 meters of this fabric for me but we discovered that shipping it from Norway was prohibitively expensive. Instead, she convinced her sister-in-law to pack it with her on her vacation to Florida in October. While her sister-in-law, who has no idea who I am, was on her tropical vacation in Florida she took the time to go to a post office and put this in the mail to me…a complete stranger. So, to Fleurine and her gracious sister-in-law, thank you. This fabric is very special to me and I knew this was the perfect pattern for it.

The day the Tallinn Sweater was released it was being sent through my printer. I’ve professed my love for Hey June patterns before here and here and I don’t think it’s any secret that I have an undying love of the Cheyenne Tunic specifically. (I have more fabric en route right now for a View A….and no, Fleurine’s SIL isn’t bringing it to the U.S. for me).

I really love Adrianna’s new sweater design. While I don’t have a natural penchant for traditional turtlenecks, I love me a good cowl. Let’s be honest, though, I’ll probably make the traditional turtleneck as well, it’s a HJ pattern after all. This fabric is a textured cotton/ poly blend. I just love the color and the herringbone texture. I will say that it doesn’t have the required stretch that pattern recommends and so my sleeves are maybe a tiny bit tighter than designed, but it still fits really well.

This pattern features an asymmetrical silhouette, two different necklines, a drop sleeve and I would’ve killed for a sweater like this while I was nursing my kids. Per the usual, the small design details and the big picture were considered with this pattern. The ease of nursing with this sweater was not a by-product of the design but was considered at the design’s inception because that’s how Adrianna rolls: flattering, stylish, and fully-functional. I won’t get into nursing politics or politics politics (my blood boils)….but we need every advantage we can get these days, right Ladies? Pink pussy cat hats, unity, tough chicks…..and Tallinn Sweaters.

I sewed up a size Medium (36, 28, 38) and I added 2.5″ to the length. It fits beautifully. The cowl has just the right amount of slouch and I think that the drop sleeve is my favorite feature. Another favorite feature? Cuffs on the sleeves and bands on the bottom. No hemming! I don’t know where my aversion for hemming comes from, but it’s there! Tip: Be sure to pay attention to the cutting of the cowl or turtle neck. I botched mine and had to piece it together.

Since hearing about the release I’ve been stalking the Instagram hashtag and all of the tester versions look amazing on everyone! Not a bad one in the bunch!

To sum up, and this shouldn’t come as any surprise, I would recommend this pattern. It’s good stuff made from good people. That’s a waning thing these days, too, get it while you still can.

Black Mamba Halifax

If you were to tell anyone that knows me reasonably well that I’d be sewing clothes and styling outfits you would’ve received quizzical stares. I have never been a fashionista, not even close. I grew up wearing soccer shorts and t-shirts and then progressed to t-shirts and jeans in high school….and college. I bought a pair of J. Crew clogs in college, thinking I was pretty cool, and then got stuck in a snow storm with them on campus and well, it didn’t end well. To paint the picture for you, I completely wiped out in front of a campus tour of prospective students and tuition-paying parents. Their reactive expressions could be described as sympathetic, but also as holding-back-laughter and are-we-sure-we-want-our-kid-around-this-type? So, I just went back to basics.  I have never been on the cutting edge of anything fashionable. I’ve always been totally okay with that, though, I’ve always liked what I’ve worn.

That’s why I love sewing so much! I can make exactly what I want like this Halifax sweatshirt but can work on being edgy, by adding faux snakeskin shoulder patches. This is not to say that the Halifax isn’t fashionable, because it is! This also allows me to name my garments what I want (because that’s necessary) and I’ve dubbed this one the Black Mamba Halifax.

I love how this one turned out! I’ve become obsessed with color-blocking and this garment was no exception. The black is made out of a suuuuper buttery, drapey Modal French Terry cotton spandex blend. It was a dream to work with and so comfortable to wear. The faux snakeskin is such a fun accent for shoulder patches. I also think it would make great side panels. Both the black and the snakeskin came from LA Finch Fabrics.

Awkward close-up #1.

This project was such a quick sew. I love all of Adrianna’s patterns and this one is no exception. I had a little panic attack about my neck band and I emailed her in said panic and she quickly talked me off the ledge by gently reminding me to steam it. Duh. I hadn’t worked with knits for awhile. I would recommend barely (if at all) stretching the neckband around the faux snakeskin as it has very little stretch. Even in doing this, I didn’t have to change the length of the neckband piece. That’s the magic of her patterns, everything just works out. 

Anyway, I love my Halifax sweatshirt from Hey June and I’ve been wearing it constantly (another old habit) ever since I finished the top stitching on the neckline that I’ll probably re-do. Once I take it off, of course.

While this post contains affiliate links and I may have received this fabric at no cost from Finch Fabrics, the opinions stated above are solely my own.

 

Hey June in Hack Town – A Jumpsuit Tutorial

GIVEAWAY!!! Adrianna, the genius behind these two patterns, has generously offered to give away a copy of the Cheyenne Tunic and Sanibel Romper! If you already have these patterns, she’s offering an alternate. How amazing is that?!? For details to enter, go to my post on Instagram. Winner will be chosen at random on Friday, August 5th and announced on Instagram.

DISCLOSURE ON JUMPSUIT: Yes, I do realize that I still don’t have buttonholes or buttons on my jumpsuit. This is because my buttonhole maker stopped working conveniently after I finished my proudest sewing moment to date and also because I can’t find the right green buttons. In fact, my machine put in a terrible buttonhole on one of the epaulets, which was immediately followed by blind rage and me ordering a brand new Bernina. Impulsive. You betcha. While I wait for the Bernina and the buttons, though, I thought I’d put together a tutorial on how I hacked this beauty. Seriously, I want to be buried in it.

That all said, I hacked a jumpsuit out of the Cheyenne Tunic and the Sanibel Romper. More specifically, I used the neckline of the Cheyenne (which I think is so flattering) and combined it with the width of the Sanibel Top and added the epaulets. I’m planning on adding the epaulets to the pants once my ‘Nina arrives.



All of these steps are probably pretty simple pattern hacks to most of you, but I did my fair share of pensive mumblings and ramblings to figure it out. The cause-and-effect of changing things in a pattern is a learned skill and, without a background in fashion design or garment experience, one that takes nothing but cold-hard practice….and a seam ripper. Rest assured, though, Adrianna was nice enough to read through these steps for me and make sure I didn’t lead you too far astray! Also, in terms of material I used rayon challis. I want to make everything in this moss green rayon that I got from LA Finch Fabrics.

Without further ado, I hacked the Hey June Jumpsuit using the following tactics:

In addition to everything listed in the Cheyenne and Sanibel patterns, you’ll need the following:

  • 1″ elastic
  • About an extra 2/3″ yard of whatever fabric you’re using for the pants. For reference, I added 24″ to the shorts inseam but make sure you measure yourself.
  • Optional: Coordinating buttons if you’re doing a different fabric for the pants and want to add the epaulets to the bottom.

DISCLOSURE Part II: Excuse the wrinkled pattern pieces in the photos. I have two toddlers, so nothing is ever smooth. Figuratively or literally. 

DIRECTIONS

  1. I was a size medium for both patterns and I would expect that you’re the same size for both patterns, too. Line up the Cheyenne front piece “On the Fold” line with the edge of the tracing paper and trace the neckline up to the inner shoulder point.
  2. Next, lay the Sanibel bodice on top and match up the inner shoulder point with the one you just made from the Cheyenne. I split the difference between the Sanibel shoulder slope and the Cheyenne shoulder slope. I did this because I thought the wider neck of the Cheyenne and wide shoulders of the Sanibel would end up making the cap sleeves look like wings. I also didn’t want the cap sleeves to be  sitting atop the shoulder as I’d expect they’d do with the narrower shoulder slope of the Cheyenne. (I probably over-thought it.) So, trace the graded shoulder slope of the two patterns.
  3. Trace the armsyce of the Sanibel. Use the armsyce of the Sanibel so that it matches the cap sleeve pattern piece.
  4. Trace down the side seam of the Sanibel. The width of the Sanibel is what you want as it’s the width that matches the shorts (soon to be tapered pants).
  5. Follow the same methodology for the back of the bodice. The Sanibel yoke is basically the Cheyenne yoke with a little longer shoulder slope. Use the neckline of the Cheyenne yoke and match the shoulder slope that you just made for the front bodice (graded Cheyenne and Sanibel). You can use the Cheyenne yoke armsyce since its so similar to the Sanibel.
  6. Use the Sanibel for the lower back piece. However, I decided not to gather the back piece to the yoke as directed. Match up the “on the fold” line of the Jumpsuit yoke with the Sanibel back and use that so that the yoke and back piece have the same width. The difference for me here was 5/8″.
  7. Now you have the pieces for your Jumpsuit bodice. Follow the directions from the Cheyenne and Sanibel patterns for the placket, collar, cap sleeves and epaulets.
  8. Next comes the pants. Cut out the Sanibel shorts and extend a straight line down the side seams and inseam. Make sure you cut them long enough, longer than you might think. I ended up extending the pants until they barely brushed the floor just to be safe. You’re going to lose 1-1/4″  for the elastic casing and I also feel like I lost a little length when I cinched the drawstring. You can always cut off more if you need to.
  9. Sew  and attach the Sanibel “shorts” to the top as instructed in the pattern’s tutorial all the way up to finishing the drawstring.  You want to try it on with the elastic drawstring so that you can determine exactly where you want to hem the pants.
  10. Determine where you want the pants to end and add 1-1/4″ for the elastic casing. Cut off any extra fabric.
  11. Now comes the super fun trial-and-error part: tailoring the pants without a pattern.
  12. Lay the pants flat on a table and cover them with a piece of tracing paper and pin in place.IMG_4337
  13. Give a go at sketching the tapering slope (technical term? I doubt it). The tapering of the pants is somewhat up to you, depending on the look you’re going for. As a frame of reference, I started at the top of the side seams and inseam and gradually graded down to a 9″ wide opening at the bottom. Towards the bottom around the calf I added a very slight curve.
  14. Carefully cut off the extra tracing paper. Leave the tracing paper pinned to the pants and used that as my stitching guide. Baste one pant leg to check the fit before doing the other leg.
  15. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you use a basting stitch for fitting purposes. Also, alleviate any headache by using a contrasting thread color for the basting stitches, they’re even easier to see for ripping. (Surely you won’t need to rip though).
  16. Once you’re happy with the fit of the pants put in proper stitches with coordinating thread and rip out those easy-to-see basting stitches. Cut off the extra fabric and finish the seams with your preferred method.
  17. Use 1″ elastic and wrap it around your ankle (or wherever you’re wanting the hem the pants). It shouldn’t be loose but make sure that it’s long enough for comfort and consider that your material will be bunching around it and give an extra 1/2″ for stitching the elastic ends together.
  18. Turn the pants hem up 1/4″, fold over and iron another 1″ to make a casing.
  19. Edge stitch around the top but leave about a 3″ opening to string the elastic through.
  20. String your elastic through with a safety pin. Before sewing it together, make sure you like the fit and amount of gathering. Once happy with it, sew the elastic together and close the opening.
  21. For all you overachievers out there, make a second pair of epaulets and put them on the bottom of the pants!

You’re done! If you weren’t a pattern hacker before, you’re a pattern hacker now! Throw your jumpsuit on and do a happy dance!  I hope you enjoyed hacking these two patterns as much as I did. If you made a mistake, I guarantee you I made it too so don’t hesitate to email me with any questions at threadbeargarments@gmail.com. On the flip side, please feel free to offer any suggested improvements you have! Be sure to post any and all jumpsuit related pictures on social media: #heyjunejumpsuit! Go team!