One of my goals for this year was to be more purposeful. More conscientious. More methodical. Less reactive. Less impulsive. As I settled back into the homestead after the holidays I started thinking about the upcoming projects that I wanted to do and was focusing on which patterns I’ll wear the most and defined my style best. I had chosen a few and was printing/cutting/taping and decided to take a quick break and thumb through Instagram. I stumbled onto a picture of Allie Olson’s Lonetree Jacket made of the same stretch twill that I had previously purchased from Imagine Gnats….
My aforementioned goals of method and deliberation flew out the window as I dramatically, out-of-a-movie two-arm shoveled everything off my work table (my kitchen table to my husband’s annoyance) and impulsively printed the Lonetree Jacket pattern, dug out the plum stretch twill, and wildly (but precisely) wielded my rotary cutter around the pattern pieces. I stopped once I realized I needed to order more fabric for the sleeves, which I reactively did immediately upon this realization. So, yes, impulse and reaction took over but the salvation is that this pattern is my style to a T. I wear it everyday. Everyday.
I made a Size Medium (36, 29, 39) based on my measurements (35, 28, 38). This was my first outer garment so I was a little worried about it fitting right which is why, as my friend Gabriela at Chalk and Notch pointed out, you make a muslin. The truth hurts. I didn’t make a muslin and settled for basting stitches instead. Upon completion of my coat, though, did see that Allie has a blog post about how to make a muslin for a coat. In the first paragraph she talks about the criticality of making a test garment and she’s right. I live on the edge and didn’t this time, but I do recommend it.
Even though I wasn’t committed to making a muslin, I was committed to making sure this coat was sewn perfectly. I knew I was going to wear it a lot and so I wanted to be proud of even the guts of the garment. I made an extra trip to Joann’s to buy all matching serger thread. I mean, c’mon, does it get more committed than that? I also used my precious Cotton and Steel Macrame lawn (and changed to black serger thread!) and I just love the colors together.
The colors and the fabric pattern give this traditional utility jacket a little bit of a feminine twist. The plum stretch twill fabric is overstock from J.Crew and so I really feel like I’m beating the system by using their fabric but making my own coat for a fraction of the cost…..which is why being a seamstress is so awesome! J. Crew only wishes they could design something this fabulous!
While the making of a coat might sound daunting, the construction of this jacket was easy and well-explained. It’s a bit time-consuming as you have the construction of all of the pockets, the drawstring casing, and sleeve cuffs but it is easy sewing. Just make sure your iron is filled up with water, steam is your friend with this project. Allie did a good job of walking you through each step and before you know it, you’re done and you’ve made a coat! A coat!
I made mine with the optional hood because I wanted as much surface area as possible to show off the accent lining. Plus, the construction of the hood is easy and adds so much to the look of the jacket. I think that this is one of the most professional-looking garments I’ve sewn to date.
I did make three minor modifications. The first one was that I added 2″ to the length. Make sure if you’re adding or subtracting length that you check the available zippers so you’re not clipping zipper teeth off. I ordered a 29″ zipper and it fit beautifully. The second modification that I did was a narrow shoulder adjustment. I took in the shoulder by 1 cm on each side and it fits perfectly! The last slight modification was lowering the top pockets by about 3/4″. This modification was total preference though and because I have a long torso.
I would highly recommend this pattern. There is also a vest option that I plan on making, too. Don’t tell me you don’t want a Mauve Iris Lonetree Vest for this spring……because I know that you do. Oh and one last tip: you might already know to do this, but I was pretty proud of myself that I remembered to buy TWO spools of coordinating thread. So, buy two, you’ll need it.
Happy Coat Sewing!
This post contains links, but they aren’t affiliate links. They are I-think-IndieSew-and-Imagine-Gnats-are-great-shops links, and I think you will, too!