The Magnolia Shorts are a flowy style shorts that resemble a skirt. I used a jersey knit with ribbing from Joann’s and I really like how they turned out. The texture of the fabric adds some interest to the fabric in lieu of a print. (This pattern looks great with a print though!) My fabric has excellent drape which I would highly recommend to achieve the “skirt” effect.
Another aspect of these shorts that is appealing to me is that they are very hack friendly. If you know me at all, then you know I love a good hack. During testing, Caroline casually mentioned in the testing group that I should hack a pair into some wide leg pants. As any perfectly level-headed person would do, I interpreted her casual mention as a full-blown triple dog dare. I retorted with a “Don’t tempt me!”…..and got to work on the hack. As one that spent my youth in the 80s and 90s, I don’t walk away from triple dog dares.
I sewed up the wide leg pants and it was super simple. I did not end up adding any circumference to the curve of the shorts, just length. I tested the waistband as designed in the pattern and they ended up looking a little “sweatpants-y”.
I changed it up a bit to give them a more tailored look. I color blocked (because I can’t seem to stop color blocking) and I also left the elastic out the front panel and interfaced it instead. I used another drapey knit from Joann’s for this pair as well. Here’s a quick tutorial on how I hacked these fun pants!
- Cut the shorten/lengthen line and extend it to the desired new length. I moved mine down 16″.
- Sew the two pant legs together as instructed in the tutorial.
- The color blocking dimensions for the waistband are up to you, this is just what I did for mine. Find the total length of your waistband from the pattern piece.
- 28% of that total length will be your interfaced piece for the front. For instance, I wanted mine to have a finished length of 11″. So, 12″ to allow for seam allowance on both sides. This design feature is totally up to you, but if you use the 28% of the total length then you’ll achieve the same ratio as my version.
- The length of your back piece will be the remainder of your total length needed. My back piece was cut to be 31″. (43″-12″).
- Cut a piece of lightweight fusible interfacing to match your front piece and fuse to the wrong side.
- With right sides together, sew the interfaced front pieces to the back piece.
- Per the pattern’s tutorial, fold the waistband in half with wrong sides together.
- Pin the gathered pants (as described in the instructions) to the waistband. Be sure to match up the midpoint of the front of the waistband with the front seam.
- Sew pants to the waistband but do no attach where the front interfaced piece is.
- To find the elastic length, use the sizing guide in the tutorial and then subtract the length of your interfaced front piece. Pull the 2″ elastic through the attached waistband. Pin in place at the beginning and endpoints of the front waistband to ensure that you like the fit.
- Secure the elastic in place by stitching 1/8″ from the beginning and ending of the interfaced front portion. It’s recommended that you go over this at least twice with ensure stability.
- Top stitch the back portion of the waistband as desired or per the pattern’s instructions.
- Hem pants per the pattern’s instructions.
Now look at you galavanting around your office, errand-running, and/or snack-prepping in style! Enjoy these amazing pants! I definitely am. You can get this pattern for your new shorts or wide leg pants here.