Hey June in Hack Town – A Jumpsuit Tutorial

GIVEAWAY!!! Adrianna, the genius behind these two patterns, has generously offered to give away a copy of the Cheyenne Tunic and Sanibel Romper! If you already have these patterns, she’s offering an alternate. How amazing is that?!? For details to enter, go to my post on Instagram. Winner will be chosen at random on Friday, August 5th and announced on Instagram.

DISCLOSURE ON JUMPSUIT: Yes, I do realize that I still don’t have buttonholes or buttons on my jumpsuit. This is because my buttonhole maker stopped working conveniently after I finished my proudest sewing moment to date and also because I can’t find the right green buttons. In fact, my machine put in a terrible buttonhole on one of the epaulets, which was immediately followed by blind rage and me ordering a brand new Bernina. Impulsive. You betcha. While I wait for the Bernina and the buttons, though, I thought I’d put together a tutorial on how I hacked this beauty. Seriously, I want to be buried in it.

That all said, I hacked a jumpsuit out of the Cheyenne Tunic and the Sanibel Romper. More specifically, I used the neckline of the Cheyenne (which I think is so flattering) and combined it with the width of the Sanibel Top and added the epaulets. I’m planning on adding the epaulets to the pants once my ‘Nina arrives.



All of these steps are probably pretty simple pattern hacks to most of you, but I did my fair share of pensive mumblings and ramblings to figure it out. The cause-and-effect of changing things in a pattern is a learned skill and, without a background in fashion design or garment experience, one that takes nothing but cold-hard practice….and a seam ripper. Rest assured, though, Adrianna was nice enough to read through these steps for me and make sure I didn’t lead you too far astray! Also, in terms of material I used rayon challis. I want to make everything in this moss green rayon that I got from LA Finch Fabrics.

Without further ado, I hacked the Hey June Jumpsuit using the following tactics:

In addition to everything listed in the Cheyenne and Sanibel patterns, you’ll need the following:

  • 1″ elastic
  • About an extra 2/3″ yard of whatever fabric you’re using for the pants. For reference, I added 24″ to the shorts inseam but make sure you measure yourself.
  • Optional: Coordinating buttons if you’re doing a different fabric for the pants and want to add the epaulets to the bottom.

DISCLOSURE Part II: Excuse the wrinkled pattern pieces in the photos. I have two toddlers, so nothing is ever smooth. Figuratively or literally. 

DIRECTIONS

  1. I was a size medium for both patterns and I would expect that you’re the same size for both patterns, too. Line up the Cheyenne front piece “On the Fold” line with the edge of the tracing paper and trace the neckline up to the inner shoulder point.
  2. Next, lay the Sanibel bodice on top and match up the inner shoulder point with the one you just made from the Cheyenne. I split the difference between the Sanibel shoulder slope and the Cheyenne shoulder slope. I did this because I thought the wider neck of the Cheyenne and wide shoulders of the Sanibel would end up making the cap sleeves look like wings. I also didn’t want the cap sleeves to be  sitting atop the shoulder as I’d expect they’d do with the narrower shoulder slope of the Cheyenne. (I probably over-thought it.) So, trace the graded shoulder slope of the two patterns.
  3. Trace the armsyce of the Sanibel. Use the armsyce of the Sanibel so that it matches the cap sleeve pattern piece.
  4. Trace down the side seam of the Sanibel. The width of the Sanibel is what you want as it’s the width that matches the shorts (soon to be tapered pants).
  5. Follow the same methodology for the back of the bodice. The Sanibel yoke is basically the Cheyenne yoke with a little longer shoulder slope. Use the neckline of the Cheyenne yoke and match the shoulder slope that you just made for the front bodice (graded Cheyenne and Sanibel). You can use the Cheyenne yoke armsyce since its so similar to the Sanibel.
  6. Use the Sanibel for the lower back piece. However, I decided not to gather the back piece to the yoke as directed. Match up the “on the fold” line of the Jumpsuit yoke with the Sanibel back and use that so that the yoke and back piece have the same width. The difference for me here was 5/8″.
  7. Now you have the pieces for your Jumpsuit bodice. Follow the directions from the Cheyenne and Sanibel patterns for the placket, collar, cap sleeves and epaulets.
  8. Next comes the pants. Cut out the Sanibel shorts and extend a straight line down the side seams and inseam. Make sure you cut them long enough, longer than you might think. I ended up extending the pants until they barely brushed the floor just to be safe. You’re going to lose 1-1/4″  for the elastic casing and I also feel like I lost a little length when I cinched the drawstring. You can always cut off more if you need to.
  9. Sew  and attach the Sanibel “shorts” to the top as instructed in the pattern’s tutorial all the way up to finishing the drawstring.  You want to try it on with the elastic drawstring so that you can determine exactly where you want to hem the pants.
  10. Determine where you want the pants to end and add 1-1/4″ for the elastic casing. Cut off any extra fabric.
  11. Now comes the super fun trial-and-error part: tailoring the pants without a pattern.
  12. Lay the pants flat on a table and cover them with a piece of tracing paper and pin in place.IMG_4337
  13. Give a go at sketching the tapering slope (technical term? I doubt it). The tapering of the pants is somewhat up to you, depending on the look you’re going for. As a frame of reference, I started at the top of the side seams and inseam and gradually graded down to a 9″ wide opening at the bottom. Towards the bottom around the calf I added a very slight curve.
  14. Carefully cut off the extra tracing paper. Leave the tracing paper pinned to the pants and used that as my stitching guide. Baste one pant leg to check the fit before doing the other leg.
  15. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you use a basting stitch for fitting purposes. Also, alleviate any headache by using a contrasting thread color for the basting stitches, they’re even easier to see for ripping. (Surely you won’t need to rip though).
  16. Once you’re happy with the fit of the pants put in proper stitches with coordinating thread and rip out those easy-to-see basting stitches. Cut off the extra fabric and finish the seams with your preferred method.
  17. Use 1″ elastic and wrap it around your ankle (or wherever you’re wanting the hem the pants). It shouldn’t be loose but make sure that it’s long enough for comfort and consider that your material will be bunching around it and give an extra 1/2″ for stitching the elastic ends together.
  18. Turn the pants hem up 1/4″, fold over and iron another 1″ to make a casing.
  19. Edge stitch around the top but leave about a 3″ opening to string the elastic through.
  20. String your elastic through with a safety pin. Before sewing it together, make sure you like the fit and amount of gathering. Once happy with it, sew the elastic together and close the opening.
  21. For all you overachievers out there, make a second pair of epaulets and put them on the bottom of the pants!

You’re done! If you weren’t a pattern hacker before, you’re a pattern hacker now! Throw your jumpsuit on and do a happy dance!  I hope you enjoyed hacking these two patterns as much as I did. If you made a mistake, I guarantee you I made it too so don’t hesitate to email me with any questions at threadbeargarments@gmail.com. On the flip side, please feel free to offer any suggested improvements you have! Be sure to post any and all jumpsuit related pictures on social media: #heyjunejumpsuit! Go team!

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