The Hampton Jean Jacket by Alina Design Co

This project turned me into a true blue maker. The construction of this jean jacket is a hands-on, no-joke, time-consuming, to-the-core rewarding endeavor. For added emphasis, I’m saying that after sewing jeans (also very rewarding). I felt like such a maker because I came away from each work session with my hands tinted from the dye in the denim. This project got more physical than others as I had to hand rotate some of the stitches on the thick areas and I got to use a hammer (and wire cutters to remove one of the jeans buttons). By the end of this project I felt like a real craftswoman! Hear me roar!…..and you could hear me roar when I realized that I did one of my welt pockets backwards.

Working with denim is an entirely different substrate that adds an extra dimension of labor that forces you to form a new relationship with your sewing machine. I had just finished my Birkin Flares when I started this project and so I was pretty well-versed with denim. I was already familiar with what my machine could do on its own and where it would need a few hand rotations. That said, if you’re new to denim I would highly recommend this pattern but I would practice a few things first. On a few layers of scrap denim see how your machine works for:

  1. Topstitching. Test tensions, preferred stitch lengths, etc.
  2. Buttonholes and bar tacks. See if your machine will give you a good buttonhole with topstitching thread. Mine didn’t and so I used matching regular thread.

I recommend experimenting and familiarizing yourself with these two things before you start because you’ll be doing A LOT of it on this project and I can tell you that you don’t want to do anything twice on this….especially using that lovely Cone Mills denim that I know you’re going to use.

The Pattern
Alina’s tutorial and construction are top notch and perfectly notched! It’s such a professional and comprehensive pattern. The group of testers that I was honored to be alongside were experienced seamstresses and I would venture to make the bold claim that everything was addressed in the pattern and tutorial and the construction was thoroughly and comprehensively verified. This pattern is perfection!

I sewed up a Size 6 with pattern measurements of 35″ and 27″. My measurements are 35″ and 28″ and the fit turned out really well! Technically, this tester version is 1″ longer than the final pattern which Alina shorted by 1″. That all worked out well for me because I probably would’ve lengthen it anyway.  I also added 1.25″ to the width of the sleeves for some added mobility. For reference, I can wear my jacket over my Tallinn Sweater comfortably, but I will mostly be wearing it over t-shirts and tanks.

I used canvas drop cloth from Lowe’s (painting section) for my muslin. It was Alina’s idea and it worked out well, it’s cheap and it’s about the same weight as denim. I would highly recommend making a muslin for this project. No really, make a muslin.

In actuality, the sewing was pretty easy, there was just a lot of stitches that went into this garment.  You’re stitching each seam five times for seam, the front felled seams, and the top stitching.  Yes, this is a sturdy garment indeed. The real efficiency-killer is the fact that you have to change between your regular thread and topstitching thread. (You get REALLY fast at threading your machine). If you have an extra machine I would recommend dedicating one to topstitching and the other for regular sewing.

If you want to sew a jean jacket, this is your pattern. In short, Alina’s pattern and tutorial will show you how to construct a fully-detailed jean jacket that looks so, so legit. She thought through everything and the results are nothing short of miraculous. I still can’t believe that I made this.

The Details

Here are some detailed shots of all of the design features that make this jean jacket an iconic style jean jacket. 

I used a 10 oz non-stretch indigo denim that I bought from Threadbare Fabrics. This. Denim. Is. The. Best. Thing. Ever. The quality is premium and now I’m a denim snob. Darnit! The shipping was fast and and I love ordering from her because I usually end up ordering some jeans hardware, too. Katie has a lot of fabulous denims and bottom weights. You should definitely check her stuff out! You know what’s REALLY great though? Alina and Katie have collaborated to bring you Hampton Jean Jacket KITS!!! Be sure to check that out!

Some of the testers ventured into bleaching and sandblasting their denim. I didn’t have the gumption to do that but I plan on experimenting with that on a later project. Alina is planning a Sew-A-Long and blog post on her adventures in bleaching and distressing which I’m looking forward to reading.

This is probably the most rewarding thing I’ve ever made. I love my jean jacket so, so much. I love that it’s an iconic piece in my wardrobe, I love the topstitching thread color, I love the high quality denim, I love the Les Fleurs pocket linings and hanging loop, I love the welt pockets (even if one of them is backwards), I love my hardware, I love it all! You will, too. Go pick up the Hampton Jean Jacket pattern, your hammer, and get to work, Ladies!

Birkins with Blue Bar Tacks – My First Adventure in Jeans Making

As I’ve chronicled my adventures in jeans construction over the last few weeks on social media I’ve received a wide range of responses. The responses from my non-sewing friends ranged from “Why are you making flare jeans?” to  “I’m obsessed with Jane Birkin and flare jeans!!!!” The feedback from my sewing friends, with respect  to my wavy waistband issues, ranged from “Eat a cheeseburger” to “Check out this tutorial on steamed crossgrain waistbands with hand stitching.”

I don’t know if flares jeans are en vogue right now but I think they’re indisputably iconic so I wanted to give the Birkin Flares by Lauren Dahl a try. I also heard nothing but fantastic things about this pattern specifically. After finishing this pattern I can fill you in on the best kept secret in the sewing community: Jeans aren’t that hard. You need a few specialty things but if you have the right needles, a good pattern, and WonderTape you can sew your own jeans.

|| TIPS ||
There are a couple things that I learned the hard way. They’re very random and ones that more seasoned seamstresses already know I’m sure. I pride this sewing blog on being honest and documenting mistakes so you don’t have to make them.

  1. Clean and oil your machine before you start. Unless you’ve JUST oiled it, I would highly recommend doing this before starting on this project. I got into a scary situation with my beloved Bernina that resulted in a very surgical removal of my needle using tools that shouldn’t be used on sewing machines. (My husband was staring at me with raised eyebrows). I don’t like to re-live it, actually. Just clean and oil it. It wasn’t the denim or the machine, it was my negligence, so don’t let that antidote deter you.
  2. Keep changing your needle. The denim I used was pretty course and your needle wears down quickly. As a rule of thumb, and this might be a little overkill, but I would use one needle for the back construction and topstitching, another for the front construction and topstitching, and a third one for the belt loop bar tacks. If you don’t want to use three needles that’s understandable but I would highly recommend using a brand new needle going into battle with those belt loop bar tacks. You’ll be sewing through seven layers of denim….which I found to be much easier to sew after I oiled my machine.
  3. Use hump jumpers for those thick areas like your bar tacks. They will be a lot cleaner.
  4. Use that hammer as Lauren describes. It most definitely helps.
  5. Use WonderTape or 1/4″ quilter’s tape for your topstitching. I was able to do my topstitching a lot straighter and more consistently when I used my 1/4″ WonderTape.
  6. Buy a lot of top stitching thread, especially if this is your first pair. There’s a good chance you’ll be ripping some topstitching out. Because this is an honest sewing blog, I’ll embarrassingly admit that I had to buy four spools. I was a little bit of a perfectionist with my topstitching though.
  7. I used tracing paper for the design on my pockets. By using tracing paper it’s really easy to get a perfectly mirrored design. Pin the mirrored images to the pockets and sew on top of the tracing paper. Easy peasy!
  8. I would interface the waistband and I used Pelon SF101 on mine. I know that the pattern doesn’t mention to do this but I got a wavy waistband when I topstitched my first one (more on this below).  Let me tell you, you don’t want to remove a top stitched, understitched waistband. I had to rip through three separate stitching lines to get it off. Boo.
  9. Use a jeweler’s bench or a piece of metal when installing your rivets and button. I used IndieSew’s Tutorial.
  10. Have a little faith! You can sew jeans, too!




I am SO happy that I made my first pair of jeans using this pattern. The instructions were thorough and the illustrations were very clear. I posted on social media a couple times how I hit a few speed bumps and how my daughter heard me say “Shoot” a lot making these but it really did go smoothly considering this was a brand new construction for me. (Disclosure: I was using stronger language than “shoot” during the surgical removal of the stuck needle from my machine.) It went smoothly because of the quality of the pattern. Once I started reading through the instructions I was relieved to see that Lauren provided information on:

  1. Stitch lengths and types for topstitching and bar tacks
  2. Types of needles
  3. How to make a quick muslin
  4. General tips for sewing with denim

The pattern really does walk you through the whole process…and I need that.

I am beyond happy with the fit of the jeans. My waist and hip measurements are 28″ and 38″ and so I sewed up a Size 28 with those exact measurements and the fit is perfect! I didn’t change one single thing to the shape of the pattern pieces or seam allowances and the jeans are so, so comfortable. I used a 10.5 oz slub denim with 3% spandex from Joann’s. I bought it because of the stretch content and I like the texture it has. It was cheap and so I fully intended it to be a muslin pair…. and before I knew it I was burning my blog initials into my leather tag.

Making jeans is a really fun creative process because there are SO many fun details that you can create. I spent way too much time deciding on  top stitching thread color but am very happy with the gold color (Gutterman’s 865). I did blue bartacks to match my blue Les Fleurs rayon from Cotton and Steel that I used for the pockets and I had a lot of fun developing the topstitching design on my back pockets. This was a sewing success and I’m officially addicted to making jeans now.dsc_8327

The only modification I made was a different construction of the waistband. As I mentioned, my first waistband turned out wavy once I topstitched it. I do not fault the pattern or the prescribed construction for this, I think maybe something was off on my tension or my denim just needed slightly more stability. I don’t know exactly, water under the bridge. For my second waistband I used a method that was given to me by Amber from @soisewedthis. To know Amber is to know a wealth of sewing knowledge. The method uses a steamed crossgrain waistband and is described on the Curvy Sewing Collective Blog. It worked beautifully! In essence you cut your waistband on the cross grain and use a healthy amount of steam to form a curve on the waistband. It was fun manipulating the fabric like that. I would recommend it!

I also used Amber’s recommended construction for the waistband which is as follows:

  1. Press one long side of the waistband by 5/8″ to the wrong side. This will make it easier to fold under.
  2. Sew waistband and facing together. Press seam toward facing. Understitch seam to facing.
  3. Sew facing to inside of jeans. Press seam towards facing. Understitch seam to facing.
  4. Turn waistband right side out.
  5. Fold waistband to the front and fold under edge that you previously pressed.
  6. Topstitch!



Bottom line: If I can make jeans, then you can make jeans. No scoffing, head-shaking, or “yeah, rights”. It’s true. Jeans are not that hard and it just take a little practice, patience, and a good pattern like this one. Just try it, you’ll surprise yourself.

Happy Jeans Making!


Make it Mine Waterfall Raglan Blog Tour

Today is my stop on the Make it Mine Waterfall Raglan Blog Tour and the theme is Date Night. I’m excited to be part of this tour alongside some amazing seamstresses who have all made such amazing versions of this pattern.

The Waterfall Raglan. I can’t say enough good things about this pattern or the lady that designed it. Gabriela from Chalk and Notch is one of the best, sweetest, and most supportive people that I’ve met in the sewing community and that’s saying A LOT considering everyone I’ve encountered has those attributes. So, if/when you buy this pattern, know that you’re supporting someone awesome and someone that knows how to make a quality pattern.

That brings me to the pattern itself. I’ve been part of the testing team since it was in pre-test and so I’ve seen MANY versions of this pattern and have made a total of five Waterfalls myself. I have three up on the blog because I couldn’t find one (it’s lost in the Mt Everest sized pile of laundry that I ignore because I’m busy sewing) and the other has a neckband that I need to pick and re-do.

I’ve made one in modal jersey knit, sweater knit, hacci knit, French terry, and poly jersey knit. I really do love them all and I wear them constantly.

This pattern is highly versatile, a quick sew, and expertly drafted. It fits everyone so well and the different looks you can get with the three different sleeve lengths and the color-blocking options are endless! Oh and did I mention there’s a girl’s Waterfall Raglan pattern for this too, because there is! img_6439

This is a version I made out of French Terry from LA Finch Fabrics. She carries such a fun, unique assortment of fabrics for great prices!


This is a fun sweater knit print that I used from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. I omitted the ruffle and hacked a waistband instead. I really, really love this retro-inspired version.

This latest version I made is made out of modal jersey knit and it is by far the softest shirt I own. I did 3/4 length sleeves on this one and added some lace to the ruffle. You can bet I’ll be wearing this more often than how often I go on dates with the hubs! 

So, what’s a fun blog tour without a couple amazing giveaways, right??

Below is a link to a Rafflecopter where you can enter to win FIVE new patterns that Gabriela curated to style with the Waterfall. How amazing is that?!? FIVE patterns that include:
The Birkin Flares by Baste and Gather
The Carrie Cardigan by Delia Creates
Sloan Leggings by Hey June
Brenna Coat by Cali Faye
ooh La Leggings by Papercut Patterns

a Rafflecopter giveaway

There is also a Link Up Party where you can win a $50 Gift Card and a Sewing Kit from Stylish Fabrics! They are also offering 15% off all their fabrics using the code GABRIELA!

All you have to do is sew up a Waterfall for you or little one and post it on social media using the hashtag #makeitminelinkup and tag @chalkandnotch and @stylishfabrics. THEN link up to the fun on this blog post! The Link Up Party ends February 12th so hurry!

Be sure to check out all of the amazing looks on the tour!

DAY 1 – February 8th, Day Looks

Heidi- Handmade Frenzy | Zoe – ZowieZo Handmade | Indu- Kaleidothought | Maria – Creative Needle and Threads | Verinne – boeven bende | Mie – Sewing Like Mad | Victoria – As it Seams

DAY 2 – February 9th, Night Looks

The Tallinn Sweater by Hey June

Fun fact: Tallinn, Estonia is one of the oldest capital cities in northern Europe and is consistently voted one of the Top 10 European Christmas Markets. I want to go to there.

Speaking of Europe….the fabric that I used for this pattern came from across the pond. I befriended Fleurine from Sew Mariefleur early last year and we quickly hit it off and found eerily similar characteristics about each other, including our taste in fabrics. Long story short, Fleurine bought 2 meters of this fabric for me but we discovered that shipping it from Norway was prohibitively expensive. Instead, she convinced her sister-in-law to pack it with her on her vacation to Florida in October. While her sister-in-law, who has no idea who I am, was on her tropical vacation in Florida she took the time to go to a post office and put this in the mail to me…a complete stranger. So, to Fleurine and her gracious sister-in-law, thank you. This fabric is very special to me and I knew this was the perfect pattern for it.

The day the Tallinn Sweater was released it was being sent through my printer. I’ve professed my love for Hey June patterns before here and here and I don’t think it’s any secret that I have an undying love of the Cheyenne Tunic specifically. (I have more fabric en route right now for a View A….and no, Fleurine’s SIL isn’t bringing it to the U.S. for me).

I really love Adrianna’s new sweater design. While I don’t have a natural penchant for traditional turtlenecks, I love me a good cowl. Let’s be honest, though, I’ll probably make the traditional turtleneck as well, it’s a HJ pattern after all. This fabric is a textured cotton/ poly blend. I just love the color and the herringbone texture. I will say that it doesn’t have the required stretch that pattern recommends and so my sleeves are maybe a tiny bit tighter than designed, but it still fits really well.

This pattern features an asymmetrical silhouette, two different necklines, a drop sleeve and I would’ve killed for a sweater like this while I was nursing my kids. Per the usual, the small design details and the big picture were considered with this pattern. The ease of nursing with this sweater was not a by-product of the design but was considered at the design’s inception because that’s how Adrianna rolls: flattering, stylish, and fully-functional. I won’t get into nursing politics or politics politics (my blood boils)….but we need every advantage we can get these days, right Ladies? Pink pussy cat hats, unity, tough chicks…..and Tallinn Sweaters.

I sewed up a size Medium (36, 28, 38) and I added 2.5″ to the length. It fits beautifully. The cowl has just the right amount of slouch and I think that the drop sleeve is my favorite feature. Another favorite feature? Cuffs on the sleeves and bands on the bottom. No hemming! I don’t know where my aversion for hemming comes from, but it’s there! Tip: Be sure to pay attention to the cutting of the cowl or turtle neck. I botched mine and had to piece it together.

Since hearing about the release I’ve been stalking the Instagram hashtag and all of the tester versions look amazing on everyone! Not a bad one in the bunch!

To sum up, and this shouldn’t come as any surprise, I would recommend this pattern. It’s good stuff made from good people. That’s a waning thing these days, too, get it while you still can.

The Sleeveless Mila by Itch to Stitch

I bought this Cotton and Steel rayon last August and have been patiently waiting for the right project. I knew it would be a sleeveless top but couldn’t pinpoint which top until I saw a sleeveless Mila Shirt by Itch to Stitch. Boom! The lightbulb came on and the vision was illuminated! I love Itch to Stitch patterns. I’ve tested for Kennis and it’s very apparent that she’s a talented pattern maker. I loved her Bonn Shirt and I’ve made two of them (so far) and so I was excited to try the Mila Shirt as well. I knew I’d love it and I was right.

I sewed up a Size 4, B cup with pattern measurements of (35, 29.5, 36). My measurements are 35, 28, 38) so I simply graded out to a Size 6 for the hip.

However, this is a pretty “bare bones” Mila shirt. I’m an honest sewing blogger and so I’ll let you know how I “clipped the corners” on this pattern!

I, obviously, omitted the sleeves and the collar. Boy, what a difference that makes to your workload!  While I love the marathon construction of a fitted, tailored shirt it was sort of nice not having to do the setting of the sleeve, the sleeve pleats, the continuous lap for the sleeve slit, the sleeve cuffs, the sleeve tabs, the buttonholes for the sleeves tabs and cuffs, and sewing the buttons on for the sleeve tabs and cuffs. I’m actually fairly exhausted in just typing all that, let alone constructing it all. Instead I just bound the sleeves, left off the collar, and my bare arms are fist pumping about those decisions.

Another modification I made was the placket technique. The pattern piece for the partial placket was the single piece type that you fold over onto each other. I have had terrible, oblong, crooked, nasty-looking luck with this approach in the past and so I used a combination of IndieSew’s partial placket tutorial  and my trusty Hey June Cheyenne pattern to get me through it. (This is not to say that Kennis’s approach doesn’t work, because I assure it does, it’s just not my preferred method). Plus, the anxiety was building because I’d cut a big long line down the center of my precious Cotton and Steel rayon….I wanted to use the method that I knew. Using the two slightly different methods, I was able to coax out a pretty nice looking placket! I’m surprised that my placket turned out so well with the rayon that I was using because my collar was a complete disaster.

I didn’t use rayon for the collar. Yep, the placket and collar are different substrates. This rayon was completely unwilling to comply for the construction of the collar, even under the submission of 212 degree steam. After the induction of blind rage and a few spells of inhaling through my nose and exhaling through my mouth I gave up. I really gave it a fair shake, but it just couldn’t help but look terrible.  I drove to my local shop and picked up some very compliant black voile. Constructing the collar  was SO much easier with the voile and I’m so much happier with how the collar looks.

So, those are the shortcuts I took on the path to completing this Mila. I did, however, make sure that I pattern-matched my sides and the back yoke pieces. I also did French seams on the sides as I had a little extra ease that I could take out.

I added an extra 2″ to the length when I was cutting the pieces only to remove 1.5″ from the final length. So that was time well spent…..but that’s all part of the process (and consequences) when you don’t make a muslin. You’re probably thinking by now what a reckless and impulsive seamstress I must be as by skipping muslins and cutting down the middle of my rayon bodice pieces.

To sum up, this is a great pattern that I would recommend. Even though I didn’t do all of the steps, I read through them and it all was well-thought out. If I had done the construction, it would’ve been easy and seamless (so to speak), as are all of Kennis’s highly professional patterns.

This blog post contains affiliate links but the opinions stated above are solely my own. 

The Lonetree Jacket by Allie Olson

One of my goals for this year was to be more purposeful. More conscientious. More methodical. Less reactive. Less impulsive. As I settled back into the homestead after the holidays I started thinking about the upcoming projects that I wanted to do and was focusing on which patterns I’ll wear the most and defined my style best. I had chosen a few and was printing/cutting/taping and decided to take a quick break and thumb through Instagram. I stumbled onto a picture of Allie Olson’s Lonetree Jacket made of the same stretch twill that I had previously purchased from Imagine Gnats….

My aforementioned goals of method and deliberation flew out the window as I dramatically, out-of-a-movie two-arm shoveled everything off my work table (my kitchen table to my husband’s annoyance) and impulsively printed the Lonetree Jacket pattern, dug out the plum stretch twill, and wildly (but precisely) wielded my rotary cutter around the pattern pieces. I stopped once I realized I needed to order more fabric for the sleeves, which I reactively did immediately upon this realization.  So, yes, impulse and reaction took over but the salvation is that this pattern is my style to a T. I wear it everyday. Everyday.

I made a Size Medium (36, 29, 39) based on my measurements (35, 28, 38). This was my first outer garment so I was a little worried about it fitting right which is why, as my friend Gabriela at Chalk and Notch pointed out, you make a muslin. The truth hurts. I didn’t make a muslin and settled for basting stitches instead. Upon completion of my coat, though, did see that Allie has a blog post about how to make a muslin for a coat. In the first paragraph she talks about the criticality of making a test garment and she’s right. I live on the edge and didn’t this time, but I do recommend it.

Even though I wasn’t committed to making a muslin, I was committed to making sure this coat was sewn perfectly. I knew I was going to wear it a lot and so I wanted to be proud of even the guts of the garment. I made an extra trip to Joann’s to buy all matching serger thread. I mean, c’mon, does it get more committed than that? I also used my precious Cotton and Steel Macrame lawn (and changed to black serger thread!) and I just love the colors together.

The colors and the fabric pattern give this traditional utility jacket a little bit of a feminine twist. The plum stretch twill fabric is overstock from J.Crew and so I really feel like I’m beating the system by using their fabric but making my own coat for a fraction of the cost…..which is why being a seamstress is so awesome! J. Crew only wishes they could design something this fabulous!

While the making of a coat might sound daunting, the construction of this jacket was easy and well-explained. It’s a bit time-consuming as you have the construction of all of the pockets, the drawstring casing, and sleeve cuffs but it is easy sewing. Just make sure your iron is filled up with water, steam is  your friend with this project.  Allie did a good job of walking you through each step and before you know it, you’re done and you’ve made a coat! A coat!

I made mine with the optional hood because I wanted as much surface area as possible to show off the accent lining. Plus, the construction of the hood is easy and adds so much to the look of the jacket. I think that this is one of the most professional-looking garments I’ve sewn to date.

I did make three minor modifications. The first one was that I added 2″ to the length. Make sure if you’re adding or subtracting length that you check the available zippers so you’re not clipping zipper teeth off. I ordered a 29″ zipper and it fit beautifully. The second modification that I did was a narrow shoulder adjustment. I took in the shoulder by 1 cm on each side and it fits perfectly! The last slight modification was lowering the top pockets by about 3/4″. This modification was total preference though and because I have a long torso.

Allie has some beautiful fabric just like this in her shop as well. She has Cranberry Twill and also a Stretch Mauve Iris Broadcloth available!

I would highly recommend this pattern. There is also a vest option that I plan on making, too. Don’t tell me you don’t want a Mauve Iris Lonetree Vest for this spring……because I know that you do. Oh and one last tip: you might already know to do this, but I was pretty proud of myself that I remembered to buy TWO spools of coordinating thread. So, buy two, you’ll need it.

Happy Coat Sewing!

This post contains links, but they aren’t affiliate links. They are I-think-IndieSew-and-Imagine-Gnats-are-great-shops links, and I think you will, too! 

The Primrose Pullover by Cali Faye

I recently tested the Primrose Pullover by Cali Faye and I gotta tell you that I’m loving my new pullover. I’m still learning all of the different knits out there and Sarah was the one that introduced me to the world of boucle knits. Now, whenever I see that word on the fabric content I automatically haul it over to the cut counter and say “Two yards, please”.

This stuff is great! I’ve purchase a couple of boucle knits from Joann’s this season and they are so great! They’re thick, textured, and are so soft.

Ok, I’m supposed to be blogging the Primrose and not Joann’s seasonal boucles.  Sarah’s new pattern is consistent with her other ones in that it’s simple and elegant. I love the length on this one which says a lot coming from me. By now  you should now that I add length to almost everything but this one I didn’t and I’m really happy with it! That said, I did see a tester remove 6″ from it and turned out to be a really cute sweater as opposed to the pullover style.

The Primrose is a oversized design with plenty of ease in the sleeves. The neckline is wide and has an option for a V-neck back or a simple scoop neck. Even though it’s oversized I think that the silhouette is very pretty! The sleeves are 3/4 length and are finished with bands as is the bottom hemline (no hemming!). Whenever it’s okay for me to finish a garment with pedal-to-the-metal serging approach as opposed to ironing and threading my double needle it gets an extra thumbs up!

I will say that “oversized” is a more than fair description of this design. I would recommend sizing down if you’re between sizes. You could also do the responsible thing and make a muslin. Ha! I would recommend thicker, chunkier knits for this pattern. I like it’s structure and thicker knits will help maintain this. I used a thin and super stretchy rayon knit for the band and it doesn’t have quite enough structure. For my next one I will use two knits that are a little more similar for the bodice and the neckband.

I like the design because I think you can make this dressy or casual. The scoop neck option is more casual where as that deep “V” on the back gives you a dramatic effect.

I plan to make more of these! I think that my only adjustment is going to be making that wide neckline narrower.

Sarah did a full tutorial on how to sew a V-neck neckband on her blog! It’s full of good instruction on how to get a professional finish. I need all the help I can get to achieve professional results. So, check out her tutorial if you need some extra help, too!

You can get the pattern here! I hope that you enjoy your new Primrose as much as I am!

This post contains affiliate links but the opinions stated above are my own.